How to tips for surfing beginners!
Surfboards and You:
Surfboards are made to float on the water. They have a natural
center of gravity. If you were to lay any surfboard in a swimming
pool, it would come to rest the same way every time. This is what
we want to do when you lay on a surf board. That is to have the
board remain in the same relation to the water as it was without
your weight on it, just a bit lower in the water. A good tip is
to find this balance point and lay on your board then make, a
mark right at your chin. This is a spot is best made with a bit
of wax or a magic marker. It is a reference point that enables
you to put your chin on the same spot every time so the board
will react to your weight the same way every time.
If the board's nose digs into the water it is called pearling and
you must move the location of "your chin" back. To adjust, just
slide back an inch from the mark and make a mental note.
Too much weigh in the back and the board will cork the board.
This is a common mistake amongst beginners. You cannot catch a
wave if you are corking your board. Move up an inch at a time
till the board lies in the water naturally. This will provide you
with the maximum hull speed and minimum drag from the water
displacement that you are causing with your weight.
Do not paddle with both arms simultaneously because this will
cause the board to speed up and slow down in the water and you
will not be able to maintain constant hull speed through the
water.
Always paddle with the crawl stroke; one arm and then the other
alternatively. This will provide you with a constant speed so you
can catch that wave.
Ok, so now we know how to lie on the board and paddle the board.
Now it's time to learn how to sit on the board. The first time
try this you may be quite wobbly. The key to doing this well is
being calm, or trying to be still. The less movement that you
make the easier you will find it is to do this. All the other
skills of surfing will improve as you learn to be "calm" while
surfing.
Now it's time to learn how to stand up. This is something you
have been doing all your life. Lie on your chest, your head up,
looking ahead. Put your hands on the board beside your shoulders
palms down like you were going to do a push up. Push your upper
body up while at the same time you sweep your feet under you,
laying them on the stringer, the line down the middle of the
board, so your weight is centered along the stringer.
When you come up, remember to keep low. If you stand erect you
will fall. Assume a position of a sumo wrestler. Press your feet
shoulder width apart and "grip the board in your feet", opposite
of the way you would press your thighs together on a horse. Have
your hands a bit higher than your waist and just in view of your
vision. Always look up! If you look at your feet, you will fall
down. I promise!
Practice this for hours. Have someone watch you and have them
critique your performance. Practice jumping up without making a
sound on the floor. Calm and controlled is the smoothest way to
approach this so practice doing it quietly. If you have a
surfboard, lay it on a large bed or in the sand and do this
exercise. This is a way for you to judge your ability to be
controlled.
Safety:
Never have your board between yourself and the coming waves!
To avoid collision with others, keep a safe distance, say fifteen
feet or the length of you, your leash and board combined.
Beginners should always wear a leash or leg rope tied to their
surfboard
Every beginner surfboard should also have a safety nose guard to
prevent dangerous impacts with the surfboard nose.
Beginners should always surf with a buddy for safety, plus it is
cool to share your surf experiences with.
Never push your board through the water fin first. The fin or
fins were made to keep the board pointing nose first. Pushing the
board fins first can be quite dangerous because the board wants
to go the other direction.
Beginner surfers should consider wearing a vest, rash guard or
tee shirt to avoid the rubbed rash they will get on their stomach
and chest.
When you fall off your board, cover the back of your head with
your hands, with your wrists over your ears and your elbows
together. Stay under water for a moment longer than necessary.
There are companies that make helmets and this is another
alternative.
When you come up, try to be facing the oncoming waves and look
for your board's location immediately. Loose boards in the ocean
are very dangerous objects for swimmers.
Surfing etiquette:
the first standing surfer that is closest to the breaking wave
has the rite of way on that wave. Anyone paddling for that wave
must quit. There are repercussions to not following this rule and
it can be very dangerous.
Most known surf spots have locals who surf that spot every day
and some believe that they "own the beach". We all know that this
is not the case. Having said that, the stranger, no matter their
ability, should endeavor to show some respect for these social
dinosaurs.
The surfer riding the wave has the right of way and the paddlers
who are paddling out must yield. This means that the paddlers
must paddle out of the way whenever possible, even if it is into
the breaking wave or behind the rider. If you are paddling for a
wave and someone is paddling out toward you, make eye contact
with that person and indicate your intentional direction in
reference to them. A nod in the direction you are going can work.
Conclusion:
Every situation is different so practice being nice in the water.
It will make you feel good, I promise. Hooting for a good wave or
encouraging someone is good too. Remember, you will get what you
give.
Fred Riehl has been surfing and working with Brave New World surf
shops for 18 years!
The Tube Quest Continues at ...
www.bravesurf.com
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