The Care and Feeding of Your Clear Vinyl Boat Windows
James "Doc" Lewis
Strataglass®, Lexan®, Plexiglass®, Isenglass, Crystal Clear,
Eisenglass, etc. Whatever you call it, it all comes from
polyvinyl chloride (PVC) which has certain definite characteristics.
1. Vinyl is a UV-sensitive material which degrades when exposed
to sunlight.
2. A vinyl's topcoat holds in plasticizers, softening agents
which keep vinyl supple.
3. Clear vinyl has NO topcoat. (The one exception to this rule is
Strataglass, which has a protective coating. Unless otherwise
noted, the advise in this article applies only to untreated clear
vinyl and therefore excludes Strataglass.)
That's It! All you ever needed to know about vinyl boat windows
in one easy lesson. Maintaining a topcoat and protecting against
UV damage will keep vinyl looking good for years.
Let up, for as little as a month, in this climate, and, well,
read on . . .
The sad truth is that all of those lovely, clear, vinyl windows,
that you were so proud of when they were new, will yellow,
scratch, and become an ugly nuisance in a very short time without
proper care.
Q. What you mean Doc, you don't just hang um and forget um?
Who is that guy?
Unlike regular safety glass which has a fairly hard surface and
resists scratching, and even your vinyl seats which have a
top-coat to protect the underlying material, a vinyl window
requires a protective coating to separate it from the elements.
Think of it a little like your skin. With regular washing,
sunscreen, and moisturizer our skin can take the Emerald Coast
summer conditions without too much trouble. Eliminate one or more
of these and stay outside 24/7 and we'll be looking 102 years old
in no time, even if we're only 20.
Cleaning Procedure
At BoatDocs1 we start off by removing as much of the loose dirt
as possible with a fine water spray. It's best to wet the entire
surface giving the water time to soften anything stuck to the
window. Next we gently wash the surface with a mild soap and
water solution. (No detergents or harsh cleansers, PLEASE)
Next, give the window a thorough rinsing with more fresh water
and then dry, either with a clean terry cloth towel or chamois.
After several years of experimentation and research we have been
convinced beyond a doubt that the only product to use on vinyl is
303Products, Aerospace Protectant. I'll let you go to their web
site and read their copy on why it's the best. But notice I said
copy, not hype, because after using it for over a year I find
their advertising to actually be a little understated.
We treat by spraying the product on both sides of the surface and
then polishing with a clean, dry, and well worn terry cloth
towel. Old baby diapers are better but are becoming nearly as
rare as DoDo eggs. . Applications last from 4-6 weeks and after
the first couple of uses it seems to get easier to maintain as
the surface actually seals itself and nothing seems to stick to
it.
Application improves visibility and reduces wear and scratching
by reducing the coefficient of friction. In laymens terms this
just means that it makes the surface slicker than snail snot. It
also repels water, dust, dirt, salt, and ultra-violet radiation.
(SPF 40) Added benefits are an anti-fog/anti-glare finish.
A monthly treatment will keep those curtains looking like new for
many years.
And What About Strataglass®?
At the beginning of this article I mentioned that Strataglass
doesn't fit the general recommendations for regular untreated
vinyl windows. The reason behind this is that it is treated, at
the factory, with a special protective coating which if
maintained in accordance with their recommendations will last the
life of the fabric and prevent the chemical leaching which is the
cause of problems for the untreated fabrics.
I don't want to get too far into specifics with this as they do
have a website of their own and have care and cleaning advise
which they offer their customers. If you have Strataglass®
curtains on your boat I suggest going to their website at
http://www.webworksgroup.com/projects/strata/beta2/index.html and
seeing just what they suggest for their product.
What if we're too late?
If your vinyl windows have begun to show the effects of aging, we
apologize. (should have told you sooner) We offer a restoration
service consisting of fine polishing and a chemical treatment.
(replacement of the plasticizers) In many cases we can eliminate
most scratches, restore the translucent properties, and with
continued maintenance with 303 Aerospace Protectant will add
years to the effective life of your vinyl windows.
If you have some vinyl windows which you are thinking about
replacing let us take a look and see what we can do. The service
is quite reasonable when compared to the price of replacement.
Below is the step by step procedure we follow to bring back vinyl
windows - hope it helps.
Overview:
This set of instructions is for windows with moderate scratching
and crazing. If the scratches are very deep the process would
need to be started off with wet sanding which is a subject all by
itself and won't be covered in this article.
What we want to accomplish here is to polish out any scratches,
stains, imperfections, or swirl marks starting with a very fine
compound and then finishing with a restorer polish to replenish
the plasticizers in the vinyl.
Tools:
You should find all of these items at an automotive paint store.
To start with you will need a variable speed electric drill
(1000-1200 rpm) with a velcro backing plate which will accept
foam rubber polishing pads. You will need 3 of the pads but an
extra one will save some time when changing polish. Always
reserve a pad for each compound or polish. While your there ask
if they carry the fine, micro-polishing compounds made
specifically for clear vinyl windows that you will use to
actually remove the scratches. If the sales-person seems to know
what they're talking about, pick his brain on what products he
sells the most of for this purpose.
I have had excellent results with a 3-M product called
"Finesse-it", which is used on both gelcoat and vinyl to good
effect. If your trip to the automotive supply doesn't turn up
anything better this will do the job and you can use what's left
over on the rest of your boat.
Another product I recommend highly, is Meguiars, "Plastx" which
is perfect for the finish (polish) runs with the pads. It also
makes a good occasional cleaner and preservative throughout the
year. It uses the Microscopic Diminishing Abrasive Technology,
(MDAT), used in their paint and gelcoat polishes to produce a
powerful, yet safe plastic cleaner. If the scratches are light
you may get good results by using just this product and making a
couple of passes with the buffer.
Procedure:
If you have some experience with polishing it's a plus although
the technique used here is unique to the material and therefore
will be learned as you go along.
We usually start with the smallest, or least noticeable window
first to get an idea of the amount of work needed and to check
the results. If there are several small pieces choose the one
which is most damaged. After completing one is a good time to
compare the work involved with the expense of replacing the
window. If time isn't a prime consideration but money is, then
this system will serve you well.
Step by Step:
Cleaning:
First thing is to thoroughly wash the window using a mild (Ivory
is good) soap and water solution, rinsing well, and then drying
gently with a soft cotton towel. I prefer old cloth diapers when
I can get them but they have become nearly extinct in my neck of
the woods. The main thing is to always use the softest, cleanest
towel you can find on your windows and now is a good time to
start.
Polishing:
After the window is dry lay it out on a firm, flat table with
plenty of soft padding underneath. Make sure the padding is
smooth and level or you'll leave edges as you polish. Set up your
drill with the backing plate and the first pad and apply enough
of the polish to the window to cover a 1 foot square section.
Immediately start buffing the section using light pressure and
keeping the pad moving. The secret here is slow and easy, it's
plastic not concrete. Keep it moist (use a water spray bottle)
and when the compound is nearly used up, you'll get a feel for
it, reapply to an adjoining section and repeat the procedure.
Continue till the side has been done and then gently clean using
the procedure outlined above for cleaning.
Finishing:
When the polishing and cleaning is completed (both sides) take a
clean pad and apply the Plastx to the entire window following the
same procedure as for the compound/polish. When the window has
been completely covered take a clean cotton cloth and buff off
the haze. The vinyl will absorb most of the Plastx which will
help feed and restore the plasticizers.
As a final procedure I usually go over the entire window with 303
Products Space Age Protectant to assure protection from ultra
violet radiation, the number 1 enemy of all vinyl and clear vinyl
windows particularly.
A Couple of Tips on Vinyl:
NEVER use any kind of regular window cleaners, detergents,
abrasives, petroleum based products, or alcohol on vinyl windows.
They are too harsh and will damage the top coat, speeding up the
loss of plasticizers. The vinyl will dry out, turn yellow and
brittle, and soon need to be replaced. You've seen this before,
now you know why.
Right along with this is a big ditto for all of your vinyl
products either on the boat or ashore. Only the mildest soap
solution, complete rinsing and a safe protective coating will
keep all of your vinyl goods looking like new.
James "Doc" Lewis has been "messin about in boats" for as long as
he can remember. He is owner/operator of BoatDocs1, a
full-service boat detailing-yacht maintenance company serving the
Emerald Coast region of Florida. To learn more about boats and
keeping them looking their best visit his web site at:
http://www.boatdocs1.com/
©2004 BoatDocs1
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